Feeling good is a luxury. This is how fashion brands communicate

Those who harbor anger find little success in social conversations about fashion brands. You win with positive emotions. And also by relying on traditional media. Here is the new online reputation study from Comin & Partners and KPI6, developed in partnership with the Fashion Sheet

So much attention to content, so much manic devotion to hashtag (“But have you checked the hashtag?”), then just the Roma coach Jose Mourinho post the video where he gives a pair of sneakers to Felix Afena Gyan (“Forever grateful sir, I’ll make you proud,” what you wouldn’t say for a pair of Speed’s in shirt number 46), and here’s the mark Balenciaga is at the top of online visibility. Agree, it is not enough to be “discussed” or to become a trending topic for a day to build an e-reputation; however, of course, for a brand that so many people still struggle to pronounce (there’s still an online pronunciation course for the luxury branding desperate: “you say balensiaga”), filmed in an unboxing video with The most famous trainer in the world is already a good step on the way to mass popularity, always what one is looking for.

But when it comes to evaluating the quality of the content and the level of notoriety, things change since the second edition of the luxury brand positioning report in terms of notoriety and evaluation on social networks, created by Comin & Partners and KPI6, software that allows companies to carry out rapid and in-depth research on opinions, trends, consumers in real time, in collaboration with “Il Foglio della Moda”. After the success of the first edition, published in November 2021 and received with great curiosity and attention, this new analysis updates the results, examining online conversations in Italian that mention the main brands in the fashion sector in Italy from October 2021 to March 2022 The analyzed mentions were more than 25,000 and were produced by 15,000 unique users in Italian in Italy. The study conducted by Gianluca Comin And Gianluca Giansante it included a quantitative and qualitative analysis of the content, a ranking of the top-rated houses and an overview of the main questions raised in conversations about the luxury sector. Particularly sensitive subject to understand how the interests of visitors to social networks, that is to say of all of us, are oriented.

Three macro-trends emerge: the quality of mentionsthe importance of Positive emotionsof which inclusion and sustainability come first (the 2022 Diversity Brand Index highlights a potential gap of +23 percent between revenue growth of companies perceived to be more inclusive versus those that are less so), and l usefulness of “support to the world”phygital“In which fashion moves, accentuated by the use of the Metaverse, by mainstream media, despite those who argue that reviving social dynamics in print or on television is tantamount to suicide. Despite the digital power and appeal of social media for young audiences, the reputation of a brand is still built on prestigious newspapers and periodicals, that is to say with those who invest in the quality of writing and information. Indeed, the ranking of the Synthetic Reputation Index shows that the reputational heritage of brands is a lasting asset to be nurtured. quality content and that the so-called old media continue to play an essential role to increase the visibility of fashion houses and contribute to their growth online.

The new analysis also reveals findings that make them increasingly aware of the deep hypocrisy that governs social media. How to reconcile the evidence that the network almost exclusively rewards brands that pay attention to body positivity, that is to say, Gucci, Balenciaga, Chanel or Armani demand orthodox behavior, conducted in the wake of the most rigorous political correctness, and then apply the most invasive filters to their messages in order to imitate a stereotypical beauty and , in the case of girls, to the patriarchal imprint? The same reaction is felt when observing the results on another strong theme of the moment, vintage and heritage. The theme of heritage, that is to say the history of a brand as a value, often intersects with user content that highlights how much brand prestige strongly influence their purchasing choices. Even today, despite the crowding of the market and the proliferation of competitors, brands that can claim a strong tradition and prestige based on the rich reputational heritage accumulated over the years have an advantage in fueling online conversations of users. The second-hand commercial phenomenon, that is to say second-hand, lives almost exclusively on these brands which, for their part, exploit it as a promoting sustainability for the recycling and reuse of used clothing. On reading the analysis data, it is clear that Gucci and Valentino have fully centered the spirit of the moment onInitiative Vault and the launch of its own vintage promotion campaigns.

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Well: but how to combine all these positive dynamics with the boom inultra-fast Chinese fashion by Shein of which the Foglio spoke at length less than a month ago? How the environmental awareness that underlies the recovery and resale of used clothing with rags that pulverize any rule of work, production and ethics, copy Zara down? In fact, they coexist around a prejudice that brands rarely realize: from those who, like them, apply economic multipliers of up to 16, the world expects clear behavior. But of itself, the world it buys expects only its own satisfaction. Among the brands most present in online conversations, Gucci is confirmed in first place, while Chanel and Versace are progressing. The podium of brands at the center of the greatest number of online conversations remains almost unchanged compared to the last quarter of 2021. Gucci and Armani retain the top two spots totaling 18,824 and 12,278 mentions respectively between Owned Media and Earned Media over the period October 2021 – March 2022. However, the ranking changes in the following positions: in the last six months In fact, mentions of Chanel have multipliedwho from fifth position reaches the lowest step of the podium with 8,390 contents, e Versace, fifth with 7,495 online conversations that concern you.

Interestingly, as we commented in the opening lines, the leap forward by Balenciaga, demonstrating that unsolicited testimonials from world famous celebrities and sportsmen are still worth gold, indeed they are definitely and obviously worth more than mercenary testimonies. In addition, visibility is not enough, the quality of content is necessary. To measure the value of mentions, Comin & Partners again used theSynthetic reputation index (SRI), an indicator that balances the quantity and quality of mentions. Conversational volume is not everything for brands: if a brand is at the center of a high volume of conversations but with a non-positive sentiment, the SRI will be lower. The two rankings indeed show slightly different positions between the brands: some companies, although protagonists of many conversations, do not obtain a high SRI value due to less positive sentiment. Similarly, a brand that has fewer conversations may achieve a higher SRI if user sentiment is positive. Again, Gucci leads with a score of 206, while Chanel, Dior and Versace move up. The brand born in Florence is followed by Armani, which is confirmed second with an SRI value of 138, and Dolce & Gabbana, which with a score of 94 gains a place and the lowest step of the podium.

The most significant changes compared to the previous ranking concern Valentino and Balenciaga: the first has moved from eighteenth to twelfth place, thanks to an index up from 12 to 30 compared to six months ago; Balenciaga, on the other hand, moved up three places thanks to an ISR that rose from 4 to 15 in the last two quarters. Fashion houses are also more interesting than media and influencers, which perhaps influence less than once or are less credible than in the past. In the survey conducted by the Observatory, for the first time, it was also verified which type of creator had obtained the greatest number of interactions on the theme of heritage, verifying that brands are the most mentioned category, even managing to surpass the content of the best known influencers. This is an unexpected trend: at a time when the role of influencers is becoming stronger and more capable of guiding user preferences, consumers are always attracted by the storytelling of the brands themselves and by the reputational importance that they can express. In this regard, user content promotes Prada and Valentino.

In online conversations, he focuses on diversity and inclusion themes, precisely topical (also) for commercial success, some brands are particularly appreciated by users and obtain the highest number of mentions. Valentino, for example, is the most cited brand by users thanks to around a thousand conversations involving the house’s social networks. Similar figures for Prada, which is garnering great interest from users, particularly for the Fall Winter 2022 collection. This also leads to a final phenomenon that deserves to be analyzed, which is “brand activism”. Regarding Russian President Putin’s attack on Ukraine, companies that responded clearly, quickly and accurately received appreciation from users and consumers. Indeed, fashion has always lived in a universe of values ​​in which the positioning of brands in relation to major issues is crucial for brand awareness.

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