A return to the stage which is almost a gift for all those who have not forgotten the success of national dress. With the beginnings of Capasa Milano during the last fashion week in Milan, Ennio Capasa brought her conception of fashion back to the catwalks, that concentration of avant-garde, essentiality and unconventional tailoring that has always distinguished her aesthetic. Since 1986, to be precise, when with his brother Charlesnow president of Cnmi-National Chamber of Italian Fashiongave life to a showcase of French creativity which, at the turn of the 90s and 2000s, established itself internationally for its sophisticated minimalism and originality.
Today, six years after the end of this adventure, the designer unveils a new personal project, enriched with particular attention paid to the theme of environmental and social sustainability since, as he himself emphasizes, “fashion must be in tune with that. happening in the world”. Or even having the ability to anticipate reality. It is not for nothing that the name of the launch collection is Before it starts. “A collection conceived as the number 0, born more than ‘something else to figure out how to best represent my vision in a harmonious way, disregarding the old rules,’ said the creator.
The debut of Capasa Milano represents a long-awaited return, by professionals and not only, of the years of National Costume …
A return which for me was initially a great emotion, but on the other hand fashion has the power to generate strong sensations. It’s a project I’ve been thinking about for a long time, the result of an in-depth analysis of the sector to decide what I wanted to put back on the market.
Did you feel invested with a certain responsibility?
The national costume marked an era and in a way wrote a page in the history of costume. It has always made me proud, but at the same time it is a burden that is not easy to manage. The right detachment allowed me to identify the values that I wanted to convey with this new project, the concept of timeless fashion in the first place. Already at the time of Costume I had pursued this timelessness and even today many people tell me that they still proudly wear certain creations. Not to mention that a greener approach is now essential.
Have you found that the fashion industry has changed a lot over the past six years?
From that time I did not like the extreme militancy of the rigidity, as much of the silhouettes as of the guns. Today, on the other hand, fashion reflects the reality and values of new consumers like a mirror, with an evolving sensitivity towards issues such as inclusivity, which I was already trying to bring to the catwalks for my community. In the days leading up to the show, one thing particularly struck me. I saw many models arrive at the casting, all very different from each other, with different styles, different hair, different features. Until a few years ago, however, they were all very homogeneous. I really appreciated this more marked individuality.
Have consumers changed too?
Today’s new generation is very different and society itself is generally more creative than before. Trivially, today a platform like Instagram has made everyone develop a more aesthetic approach to things and the customer is therefore more aware of what they see and what they are looking for.
Capasa Milano also touches research at the technological level, another very topical aspect…
I am convinced that Italian couture is an incredible value for our country, a heritage to be preserved, but which must also be considered with a view to the future. For this reason, in the collection, couture and haute couture are treated in an unconventional way, alternating laser-cut and heat-sealed jackets with techniques borrowed from sportswear. The technical approach permeates the entire project.
How will the distribution of the brand be organised?
For now, we are selecting a range of research and innovation-aware online partners to achieve organic growth. Today, technology also allows us to work on options such as rental, which has always been my philosophy. The second hand has always been part of me, since I was little. And nowadays it’s a perfect example of circular economy, not to mention that even at the design level we don’t want to make the collection age immediately, but make it accessible over time to our entire community.
Capasa Milano is a project shared with his brother Carlo and his sister Rita. You have embarked on a second ordeal in the management of a family business…
In Italy, family businesses are a unique feature. For us, being a kind of startup, this is very important, because we work closely together and everyone’s total commitment is necessary. We built this new project on our experience and this time we also involved the new generations. My brother’s children are still young, but mine are already contributing. Generations come and go and we like to keep putting energy into what we do.
After so many years of experience and success in this world, what still fascinates you the most?
What I love most about fashion is its ability to always surprise and regenerate while remaining consistent. Fashion has a very strong energy. Then I like the fact that it is a type of company designed to bring joy and the ability to innovate, even if it is especially when it becomes a custom and is in tune with what is happening in the world. that I find he has an irresistible charm. Fashion always manages to intervene a little earlier, it has a kind of hypersensitivity. (All rights reserved)
The full number of MFF-Magazine for Fashion 111 it can be viewed here.